The show I was most looking forward to seeing during all of my planned coverage of New York Fashion Week was my good friend Antonio Azzuolos’.
Call me bias, that is fine, but since seeing his first collection a few years ago, I have proclaimed that Antonio is one of the best designers around! With his CFDA nomination and newest collection, I finally rest my case.
When I greeted Antonio backstage before the presentation, he seemed unimaginably relaxed, despite the pressure and attention he was facing (Anna Wintor was due to stop in at any moment). But when the looks finally started rolling out, I quickly understood why. This collection was effortlessly cool. The nod from the CFDA almost seemed to put his mind at ease as he adjusted his plans from a small elegant, globetrotter-with-a-duffel collection, to a wider more cohesive collection which allowed him to focus on more than just his impeccably tailored jackets and suiting that we saw last season and are so familiar with.
Azzuolo’s fabrications this season are as luxurious as ever, his knits are a super soft merino wool and suiting fabrics are sourced from the very fine Malhia Kent, which many of the worlds best couture houses use. Antonio also threw in a twist, literally; a slightly off-centered drop crotch, which was seen in both his pants and shorts, lending the collection a tailored yet slightly street esthetic… (A sartorial dream). His jackets were a bit softer in the shoulders than last season, with all the double breasted, formal looks making my, “must have, but can’t afford” list.
In a nut shell, this collection is “1970’s YSL, meets Tom Ford while traveling from New York to Milan, to the south of France and back again.” It has everything you will need for whatever your next Spring will bring.
THANK YOU ANTONIO